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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.